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Journeys

Architecture, Hvar

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Fort Fortica
If you stroll north from the square, passing through the grand main city gate, known locally as Porta di datallo or the Gate of Dates, you'll find yourself ascending the stairs through the charming old part of the city. This area is a delightful maze of palaces built in the 15th and 16th centuries. As you wander through the narrow bends, the air is filled with the refreshing scents of Mediterranean plants. Your journey will lead you to Hvar's majestic fortress, Fortica, affectionately called Španjola by the locals. Constructed at the start of the 16th century under Venetian rule, it was given a fresh lease of life in 1579. Today, the fort is a treasure trove of history, showcasing a collection of ancient amphorae and exhibits from both antiquity and the Middle Ages. But beyond its architectural marvels, the real treat is the breathtaking panoramic view it offers. From here, you can feast your eyes on the stunning cityscape of Hvar, its picturesque surroundings, and the enchanting Pakleni Islands. A fun fact about the fort: it was originally built as a protective fortress against Turkish raids, making it not just a scenic spot but a place steeped in history. The view from the top is especially magical at sunset, when the sky transforms into a canvas of pinks and oranges, casting a warm glow over the islands. It's a perfect spot for photography enthusiasts or anyone wanting to capture a piece of Hvar's magic.
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Hvar Franciscan Monastery
Just a short, leisurely walk from Hvar's bustling square, you'll find yourself embracing the soothing sea breeze along the waterfront, eventually leading you to the serene Franciscan Monastery. This tranquil haven invites you to immerse yourself in its rich collection of museum exhibits. Imagine exploring Greek, Roman, and Venetian coins, intricate liturgical items, a fascinating atlas by the ancient cartographer Ptolemaeus, and rare amphorae exhibits. The monastery also houses masterpieces by Venetian painters like Francesco Santacroce and Palma Junior, but the true showstopper is the breathtaking Last Supper painting, measuring a whopping 2 by 8 meters. Art critics are divided: some attribute it to Ravenna's Matteo Ingoli, while others believe it hails from the school of Palma Junior. A unique attraction within the monastery grounds is the majestic 300-year-old cypress that stands proudly in the garden. It’s a living testament to the passage of time and adds an extra layer of charm to this already captivating site. As you wander through, imagine the stories this ancient tree could tell, having witnessed centuries of history unfold. Whether you’re an art enthusiast or a history buff, the Franciscan Monastery offers a delightful glimpse into Hvar's cultural heritage.
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Square & Cathedral of St. Stephen
When you find yourself in Hvar, every winding street seems to usher you toward Hvarska pjaca, the heart of the city’s public and social life. It's the largest square in Dalmatia, and you can feel its pulse as locals and visitors mingle. On the eastern side stands the Cathedral of St. Stephen, a magnificent structure with roots tracing back to a 6th-century early-Christian church. It took on its current form during the 16th and 17th centuries. The Cathedral honors St. Stephen, a pope and martyr, who is the guardian of both the Diocese and the city itself. The bell tower of this Cathedral, along with others like those of St. Mark, the Franciscan monastery, and the ruins of St. Venerande, are celebrated as the most exquisite in Dalmatia. Inside the Cathedral, the treasures continue. It houses an array of valuable items and stunning paintings by artists such as Stefano Celesti, Palma Junior, and the Spanish artist Juan Boschettus. The most famous piece here is undoubtedly the Madonna, a proto-Venetian masterpiece dating back to 1220, making it one of Dalmatia's oldest works of art. Adjacent to the Cathedral is the Episcopal Palace, which has been home to a fascinating collection since 1963. Here, you'll find sacred vessels, archival documents, ancient books, and intricately designed liturgical vestments. It’s a real treat for history buffs and art enthusiasts alike. And when you've soaked in all the culture, take a moment to enjoy a coffee at one of the charming cafes lining the square, where you can watch the world go by and feel the unique blend of history and modern life that defines Hvar.
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Tvrdalj
Tvrdalj Castle stands as a testament to the rich history and culture of Hvar, a serene island in Croatia. This remarkable fortress was crafted by the celebrated poet Petar Hektorović as a defense against the Turks. Ingeniously constructed by reclaiming land from the sea, it could originally be accessed only by crossing a bascule bridge. At the heart of Tvrdalj, Hektorović created a tranquil Romanesque garden, complete with a charming fishpond that reflects the sky like a mirror. The castle's walls are adorned with numerous stone inscriptions, each with its own story to tell. The most profound inscription reads 'Omnium Conditori,' a dedication to God, the Creator of all things, reflecting Hektorović's deep spirituality and connection to the divine. As you wander through Tvrdalj, you'll feel a sense of peace and timelessness that transports you back to an era where poetry and architecture intertwined seamlessly. While you're there, take a moment to explore the quaint town of Stari Grad, one of the oldest in Europe. Its narrow cobblestone streets and picturesque harbor offer a glimpse into the island's storied past, making it a perfect spot for leisurely exploration. If you're a fan of local cuisine, don't miss the chance to try some fresh seafood at one of the charming seaside restaurants. It's an experience that will linger in your memory long after you've left this enchanting place.
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Church Fort of St. Mary
One of the most remarkable landmarks on the island of Hvar is the Church-fort, built in 1571 following a Turkish attack. It stands proudly on the site of an earlier church dating back to 1465. This structure is unique, designed like a fortress complete with an observation post and loopholes. From the top, you're treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding landscapes and fields, perfect for those Instagram-worthy shots! Inside, the church houses an impressive collection of art. You'll find valuable works by renowned artists such as Stefan Celesti's 'Lady of Mount Carmel,' Antonio Sciuri's 'Mary's Childbirth,' Giuseppe Alabardi's 'Resurrection' and 'Placing into the Tomb,' Marko Rašica's 'Lady of Mount Carmel,' and Celestin Medović's 'Homage of the Three Kings.' Each piece tells its own story, adding a rich layer of history and culture to the already captivating atmosphere. While you're there, take a moment to soak in the serene ambiance. The church-fort is not only a testament to resilience and architectural ingenuity but also a window into the past, where art and history beautifully intertwine. And don't miss out on exploring the charming town of Vrboska nearby, often called "Little Venice" for its network of picturesque canals and quaint stone bridges. It's a delightful spot to wander and discover hidden gems at every turn.
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Church of the Assumption Jelsa
The Church of the Assumption in Jelsa stands proudly on the foundations of an early Gothic church, with its history stretching back to 1535 when it was expanded and fortified. Inside the vestry, you'll find an impressive collection of liturgical vestments and artistic crosses. One standout piece is the painting "Mother of God and the Torture of Fabian and Sebastian" by the Flemish-Venetian painter Pietera de Costera. It's a captivating masterpiece that draws art enthusiasts from far and wide. Every year on the 15th of August, Jelsa bursts to life for the Vela Gospa, the Feast of the Assumption. This vibrant celebration sees people from neighboring areas flocking to the town, filling the streets with lively chatter and joyous festivities. If you're planning a visit, this is a date to mark on your calendar. One of the most awe-inspiring events in Jelsa is the Za Križem procession, which begins on the night of Good Thursday. This 22-kilometer journey takes participants through the picturesque villages of Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj, and Vrboska. As the first light of dawn breaks, the procession returns to its home church, completing a tradition that has been cherished for 500 years. Recognized by UNESCO, this event is a testament to the enduring cultural heritage of the region. While you're in Jelsa, take a moment to soak in the stunning Adriatic views and explore the charming cobblestone streets. The town's blend of history and natural beauty creates an irresistible allure. Don't forget to try some local delicacies at the quaint cafes and restaurants scattered throughout the area; they offer a delightful taste of the region's rich culinary traditions.
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Palace Biankini
In the 19th century, during the age of sailboats, Stari Grad became a hub for the shipping industry and naval construction. Today, it proudly showcases its maritime legacy at the Palace Biankini, home to an impressive naval collection. This collection, established by the Centre for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage of the island of Hvar in 1966, offers a fascinating glimpse into nautical history. Visitors can admire an array of nautical instruments, paintings depicting the captains of Hvar, old nautical charts, and literature on navigation. What makes this collection truly special is not just the artifacts themselves, but the stories they tell of a bygone era. Imagine the captains who once navigated these waters, their eyes scanning the horizon for new adventures. The Palace Biankini is more than just a museum: it's a time capsule that transports you to a world where the sea was both a livelihood and a mystery waiting to be unraveled. If you find yourself in Stari Grad, this naval treasure trove is a must-visit, offering a unique window into the island's rich maritime past.