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Journeys

Architecture, Split

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Golden Gate Split
The ancient Romans knew them as Porta septemtrionalis. Imagine Emperor Diocletian strolling through these majestic gates on June 1, 305, as he entered his opulent palace. Crafted in a rectangular shape with sturdy double doors, these gates were designed as part of the Roman military's strategic defenses, known as a propugnaculum. The facade was adorned with niches that housed statues of the four tetrarchs: Diocletian, Maximian, Galerius, and Constantius Chlorus. These gates formed a direct route from the Peristyle, through Cardo street, leading straight to Salona, the capital of the Roman Province of Dalmatia. Back then, only the emperor and his family had the privilege to pass through them. Today, these historic gates, alongside the nearby monument to Bishop Gregorius of Nin (Grgur Ninski) created by the renowned Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, are among the most beloved tourist attractions in Split. The statue of Grgur Ninski is said to bring good luck if you rub its big toe, a tradition many visitors enjoy participating in. Under Venetian influence in the 16th century, the gates were renamed Porta Aurea, or the Golden Gates, a name that has persisted to this day. It's fascinating how history and culture intertwine here, making these gates a must-see for anyone visiting Split. Whether you're a history buff or just love a good story, the Golden Gates offer a peek into the grandeur of ancient Rome right in the heart of Croatia.
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Klis Fortress
Perched on the steep cliffs of the gorge between Kozjak and Mosor, the Klis Fortress stands with a commanding view, one eye gazing at the sea and the other watching over Zagora. This fortress was established in a remarkable strategic position, allowing for both military and commercial oversight of the entire Klis Valley, as well as the regions of Salona and Split. Due to its significance, Klis was often hailed as the key to Dalmatia and the heart of the medieval Croatian kingdom. The earliest traces of settlement around the Klis Fortress come from the Krčina cave, where ceramic pottery was discovered. This pottery, with its unique imprinted designs, belongs to the Impresso culture, which flourished from 6000 to 4500 BC along the Adriatic coast. Although much about the people of that era remains a mystery, it's possible that these early inhabitants were among the first to practice agriculture on the Adriatic coast. The first identifiable inhabitants of this area were the Dalmatians, an Illyrian tribe. They settled from the river Krka to the Neretva, including the region along the river Jadro, known today as Solinčica beneath Klis. The Dalmatians strategically built their forts on natural elevations to fend off potential attackers. At the base of the Klis Fortress, remnants of such a settlement have been found, serving to control the passage between Kozjak and Mosor. Along with other nearby forts, the hill below Klis managed access to Illyrian Salona and the mouth of the river Jadro. This strategic role continued with every subsequent structure built on this site. Today, visitors can wander through the fortress and imagine the echoes of history resonating within its ancient walls. The breathtaking views alone are worth the visit, offering a panorama that stretches from the rugged mountains to the shimmering Adriatic Sea. It's a place where you can feel the pulse of history and the whispers of the past in every stone.
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Silver Gate
Porta Orientalis, a name echoing from the Roman era, served as the eastern entrance to the grand palace. This route led travelers along the main street, known as the decumanus, all the way to the Iron Gate and Pjaca, the bustling heart of the city square. The Silver Gate, while less ornate than the Golden Gate, holds its own charm. It remained closed from the Middle Ages until 1952, reopening after a significant reconstruction during the demolition of the Baroque church, Dušica. Flanking this gate are the remnants of octagonal towers, which hint at the architectural splendor and strategic control once exercised over the city's entrances. As you stroll through these gates today, you tread on the very stones of the ancient pavement of the decumanus. Imagine the footsteps of Diocletian's subjects who walked here centuries ago. The Silver Gate has a special place in recent history too: in 2000, it played host to a momentous event for Split's Catholic community when Pope John Paul II passed through, captivated by the beauty of St. Domnius Cathedral, where he later offered prayers. Split itself is a city that effortlessly blends the ancient with the contemporary. Just a short walk from the Silver Gate, you'll find lively cafes and shops nestled among historical ruins. The juxtaposition of old and new creates an atmosphere that's both dynamic and steeped in history, making it a must-visit for any traveler seeking a unique experience.
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The Riva
The Riva, as we know it today, began to take shape two centuries ago during the Napoleonic era when the French, led by Marshal Marmont, held sway over this region. Nowadays, this iconic promenade is Split's living room, the city's most beloved and significant public space. Over the years, it has undergone several expansions and reconstructions, but it has always been blessed with a stunning backdrop: the southern facade of the Diocletian Palace. This area includes the entrance to the Substructures and is flanked by buildings constructed to the west of the Palace, along with the Franciscan monastery and the church of St. Francis. Not to mention the Bajamonti Dešković Palace and the Port Authorities building standing proudly at the east end. Today, the Riva is a pedestrian's paradise, bustling with cafés and restaurants. It's the perfect spot to savor your morning or afternoon coffee or to enjoy an evening out with friends over some drinks. The Riva serves as the stage for Split's vibrant city life. It's a venue for countless cultural and entertainment events, like the lively Split carnival. It's also where the city celebrates its sports heroes, from the legendary Goran Ivanišević to the athletes of the Hajduk football club and Jugoplastika basketball team, not to mention Olympic medalists. The Riva has historically been a political forum as well, with decades of political moments captured through mass rallies. It truly shines during Sudamja, the celebration dedicated to St. Domnius, Split's patron saint. If you're visiting, take a leisurely stroll along the promenade and soak in the sights. The Riva offers stunning views of the Adriatic Sea and is lined with palm trees that sway gently in the breeze. As you wander, you might stumble upon street performers adding a touch of local flavor to the atmosphere. It's a place where history and modernity blend seamlessly, creating an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to visit.
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Church and Monastery of St. Francis
Nestled on the western edge of the Riva, the Church and Monastery of St. Francis offer a fascinating glimpse into Split's rich history. Built on the foundations of an early Christian site, this remarkable place stands by the grave and the modest Church of St. Felix, a martyr from the era of Diocletian. Fast forward to the 13th century, and you'll find the Little Brothers of St. Francis taking residence here, adding their own layer to its storied past. Among the church's treasures, the Gothic Crucifix painted by Blaž Juraj of Trogir from the early 15th century stands out as a masterpiece. Equally captivating is the ancient sarcophagus depicting the Crossing of the Red Sea, a relic from Roman times that speaks volumes of the area's artistic heritage. Adjacent to the church, the Franciscan monastery invites you to explore its 13th-century cloister and a library that houses over 3,000 books, some dating back to the 16th century. It's a bibliophile's dream, offering a quiet sanctuary of knowledge. In addition to its architectural and literary charms, this sacred site is the final resting place for some of Split's most notable figures. You can pay your respects at the tomb of Marko Marulić, the father of Croatian literature, and admire the sarcophagus of Ante Trumbić, a prominent Croatian politician, crafted by the renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović. As you wander through the church and monastery, take a moment to soak in the serene atmosphere. The scent of history lingers in the air, making it easy to imagine the countless stories these walls could tell. Whether you're a history buff or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, this hidden gem in Split is a must-visit destination.
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Iron Gate
Originally known by their Roman name, PORTA OCCIDENTALIS, these gates are one of the four key entrances that have been pulsing with life throughout Split's 17-century history. From the moment they first opened, they have silently observed the city's evolution: from the grandeur of Roman times, through the transformative Middle Ages, right up to the present day. It's fascinating how they still stand, welcoming the hustle and bustle of modern Split, with the Renaissance clock's chimes echoing through the air. Once, a relief of Nika, the Roman Goddess of Victory, adorned the lintel. Yet, by the fifth century, Christians had carved a cross there, marking their presence and faith. By the eleventh century, a quaint church, Our Lady of the Belfry, was constructed above the gate. Initially dedicated to St. Theodor, it boasts a stunning early Romanesque bell tower. During the Middle Ages, the area within the gate served as a courthouse. Until about fifty years ago, it was a bustling hub of small shops. This rich tapestry of history is palpable even today. Housing can be found nestled within the very walls of the gate, and the bell tower offers a breathtaking view of the decumanus and the People's Square, or Narodni trg. The city clock is a curious piece too, featuring 24 digits instead of the usual 12, a charming quirk that captures the imagination. Right by the gate, you'll find one of the most elegant palaces of the late Split noblemen, belonging to the Cypriani Benedetti family. Its two distinctive six-arch windows are a sight to behold. While wandering these ancient streets, don't miss the chance to explore the nearby markets. They're a vibrant mix of scents, sounds, and flavors that capture the essence of Split's everyday life. Whether you're seeking local delicacies or unique souvenirs, there's something for everyone.
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Diocletian Palace
Diocletian's Palace stands as a testament to Roman architecture, remarkably well-preserved through the ages. This grand structure, originally constructed for Emperor Diocletian, fuses the elegance of a luxurious villa with the strategic layout of a Roman military camp, known as a castrum. The palace is cleverly divided into four sections, intersected by two main streets. It's like stepping into a historical mosaic, where each stone whispers tales of ancient times. As you wander through its labyrinthine corridors, you'll find yourself transported back to a time when emperors ruled and history was etched in stone. The palace's rich history isn't just confined to its walls. The surrounding city of Split offers an enticing blend of the old and new, where modern cafes and shops seamlessly merge with ancient ruins. It's a place where you can sip a cappuccino while imagining the footsteps of Roman soldiers echoing through the centuries.